Linda Mackey, Canadian artist
Arctic Quest Trip Itinerary
ARCTIC QUEST - BAFFIN ISLAND EXPLORER
Journey to Greenland & Canada’s High Arctic. Sat, July 22 - Thurs, August 3, 2006
Today, in the comfort of the ship R. V. Akademik Ioffe, we can trace the footsteps of the early explorers, accomplishing in a few days what took the explorers decades of mind numbing effort and many lives. We will stop at some fascinating and remote settlements of both Greenlandic and Canadian Inuit. Follow our journey on board the R.V. Akademik Ioffe to the High Arctic.

BAFFIN ISLAND EXPLORER ITINERARY

Day 1 Sat. July 22
Departure from Ottawa
Today we will have an early departure from Ottawa on our charter flight to Iqaluit, the capital of Canada’s newest territory, Nunavut. This flight often provides spectacular views of Labrador, Baffin Island and Frobisher Bay. On arrival at Iqaluit, we’ll be met by the Expedition Crew and taken to the R/V Akademik Ioffe, at anchor in Frobisher Bay and our home for the next ten days. We’ll sail, on the tide, down historic Frobisher Bay and head southeast through the narrows. We'll then be introduced to our expedition crew and provided with the first briefing of our arctic adventure to come.

Days 2 – 3 Sun. July 23 – Mon. July 24
East Coast of Baffin Island
For the next two days we’ll be sailing north along the east coast of Baffin Island. During this time, we’ll start our on-board lecture series, spend as much time as possible on the ship’s bridge and observation decks keeping a sharp lookout for possible Polar Bear sightings, and perhaps even a rare Bowhead Whale and also, if the conditions are suitable, make our first landing on this remote coast in our Zodiacs. How close we will be to the coast of Baffin Island will depend on the ice conditions. Rest assured, however, that, in the true spirit of expedition cruising, we always take every opportunity that presents itself to introduce you to this amazing High Arctic environment.

Day 4 Tues. July 25
Davis Strait
Today, we’ll change course and turn northeast on a direct heading to the Greenland coast. As we cross Davis Strait we’ll spend much of our time on deck spotting such northern seabirds as dovekies, fulmars, jaegers, kittiwakes, and marine mammals like Harp, Ringed and Bearded Seals and, with some luck, whales. Our lecture series continues and the presenters will help put the maritime history, culture and nature of this high arctic region into perspective. We will also be crossing the Arctic Circle: an exciting first for many of us on board.

Day 5 Wed. July 26
Sisimiut
Our first stop today is the Greenland town of Sisimiut, well known for its colourful harbour. We will clear Greenlandic and Danish immigration and customs here, before taking a look around town. Later in the day, we hope to visit the tiny fishing community of Itlaveq, one of the most picturesque villages in Greenland. We aim to visit a beautiful little bay nearby where we can take a tundra walk and enjoy a wonderful array of lichen, arctic wildflowers, low growing arctic willows and Labrador Tea.

Day 6 Thurs. July 27
Ilulissat
We expect to reach Ilulissat, in Disko Bay, early today. The name means "icebergs" in the Greenlandic language, and it is a large town by Greenland standards – with a population of about 6,000 people nestled amongst the hills right next to the immense Jakobshavn Glacier. This glacier is the fastest moving in the world – up to 20 metres a day! Each day it calves several icebergs the size of football stadiums.

We have a number of optional activities planned during our visit to this bustling town. There will be a hike through the village, past hundreds of dozing Greenland Huskies, and over the tundra to viewpoints overlooking the awesome Jakobshavn Ice Field. Near the viewpoints are some ancient Inuit ruins indicating that this area has been inhabited for several centuries. This walk is billed as almost a “must” for our participants.

There is also an excellent museum, dedicated to the great Greenlandic explorer and anthropologist Knud Rasmussen, that is quite close to the centre of town. We can check out what is for sale in the local meat and fish markets, or simply browse in the well-stocked tourist information and gift shops.

A pleasant way to spend a quiet half-hour is to watch the activity, in the perpetually busy harbour, where small one-man boats lie alongside modern and well-equipped ocean-going trawlers.

Later in the day, we will enjoy cruising amongst the icebergs, calved from Jakobshavn, in our Zodiacs. Some of which have been known to travel as far south as New York before breaking up. Later in the day we return to the ship and, in the twilight, as we sail towards Qeqertarsuaq, we’ll be on the lookout for the many species of whales and seabirds that frequent these waters during the intense Arctic summer.

Day 7 Fri. July 28
Qeqertarsuaq
Our goal for today is the virtually unpronounceable village of Qeqertarsuaq, a fishing village that used to be known as Godhavn. The town is small with an interesting little museum. The surrounding area of Disko Island is simply beautiful. Our options here, depending on the weather conditions, include a Zodiac cruise along the exquisite coastline near Qeqertarsuaq, or perhaps a walk along the coast and into the interior to a very picturesque waterfall.

Day 8 Sat. July 29
Uummannaq
Today we make our last stop on the coast of Greenland – as we visit the small island town of Uummannaq. The scene is back-dropped by spectacular Uummannaq Mountain, which rears 1,175 metres behind the town. This unique location is also noted for its remarkable and often dramatic changes in colour that take place during the day. We hope to spend quite some time ashore, exploring the town (population about 1,300) with its steep roads, colourful homes, a rock church, and wonderful views of the harbour.

After visiting Uummannaq, we will set sail for a short trip across the bay to a tiny cove that was featured in the National Geographic. We will board our Zodiacs and land on a picturesque beach on the mainland. This is the site of the graves of the Greenland mummies, a group of Viking women and children who apparently drowned almost a thousand years ago, and which is also a burial site for Inuit who lived here centuries ago. This is a fascinating area that not only provides historical insights but also gives us some magnificent views of the ice field surrounding Uummannaq. Late in the day we return to the ship and set sail once more.

Day 9 Sun. July 30
At Sea - Baffin Bay
Today we will reluctantly leave Greenland and make our way back across Baffin Bay, heading for the northern tip of Baffin Island and the Canadian community of Pond Inlet. The crossing will take almost two days and our time at sea will be well spent by catching up with our education program, relaxing after the excitement and shore excursions of the previous few days, iceberg spotting and watching for seabirds following the ship. If we encounter the Baffin Bay Ice Pack, we will be searching for Polar Bears on the ice flows as Ringed Seals, the favourite prey of Polar Bears, often sleep on the ice.
This gives our naturalists, historians and anthropologists the opportunity to discuss in detail the fascinating flora and fauna, the incredible history, and the modern social conditions of Greenland and its close neighbour Baffin Island and the Canadian High Arctic. It is likely also during this time that there will be sightings of huge icebergs, which are commonplace in this area.

Day 10 Mon. July 31
Pond Inlet
Returning to Canada from Greenland, we must go through immigration formalities which will be done when we reach Pond Inlet. There is a small settlement here that is noted for its high quality soapstone carvings and similar crafts. The people of Pond Inlet are very hospitable and we may be welcomed with a cultural show at the Community Centre. Such shows may include throat singing, fur fashions and the remarkable feats that characterize the annual Inuit Games.
If time permits, we will be offered a guided walk to an ancient Inuit campsite on Salmon Creek, where the Arctic Poppies and Arctic Cotton Grass grow profusely and Ringed Plover and White-rumped Sandpipers feed along the sandy beach.
After our departure from Pond Inlet, we sail up Navy Board Inlet on our way to Lancaster Sound, the famous waterway used by many explorers seeking entrance to the Northwest Passage. This is a particularly stark and beautiful region – despite its unimpressive name.

Day 11 Tues. Aug 1
Prince Leopold Island
On our journey westwards along Lancaster Sound, we will be looking for Walrus, Harp Seals, and Polar Bears. This is a good area which, over the years, we have enjoyed considerable success in their sightings. In the distance, the impressive high cliffs of Prince Leopold Island emerge from the water like a huge fortress. When we reach Prince Leopold, we plan to make some Zodiac cruises along the base of the island's great bird cliffs. Here, on these immense, sheer, rock walls, huge populations of murres, kittiwakes and gulls are to be found. We will also be literally surrounded by Black Guillemots, in a frenzy of activity, including the adults fishing and returning. This is also the time when young murre chicks make their first dramatic flight, from their cliff ledge nests, to the sea below.

Day 12 Wed. Aug 2
Beechey Island
We now continue on to the bleak shores of Beechey Island, and the graves of the three members of Sir John Franklin’s expedition who perished during Sir John Franklin’s 1845 ill-fated expedition. Our lecturers will have discussed the full details of this and other attempts to find the Northwest Passage. As long as ice and wind conditions are suitable, we will go ashore to the site of the 1845 expedition’s winter camp and the graves that mark its location. The beach, stark and open, is a poignant reminder of the brutal polar conditions faced by explorers who were totally unprepared to over-winter there. Within a few months, the remaining expedition members also died during their attempt to trek back to the mainland and safety. Our visit will end as we walk up the beach, from the graves, to the weathered remains of Northumberland House, a supply depot left by the searchers for the Franklin expedition. A number of more recent cairns have been erected on the site.

Day 13 Thurs. Aug 3
Resolute Bay
To conclude the voyage, R.V. Akademik Ioffe sails towards Cornwallis Island. It is here in Resolute, at the most western point of the voyage that we will disembark the ship. We will then be transferred to the airport for the charter flight to Ottawa. As we head south we’ll fly over Baffin Island, Hudson Strait and Labrador often with spectacular views of the tundra and waters below. We expect to arrive in Ottawa during the evening.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

The R.V. Akademik Ioffe:
• Was built in Finland in 1989, at one of the most sophisticated shipyards in the world, for the Russian Academy of Sciences. Some of the ships currently carrying passengers in polar waters were built over 35 years ago and are showing their age.
• Is a large ship of 6450 tonnes, with an ice-rated hull, that carries only 110 passengers. Many ships sailing in polar waters carry up to 110 passengers and are less than 1/3 the size.
• Employs a highly technical and sophisticated hydraulic stabilizing system that ensures the most comfortable sailing conditions for its passengers at all times. Some ships operating in polar waters have no stabilizing systems.
• Has state of the art lifeboats that are self-propelled, fully enclosed, and self-righting. Some passenger ships operating in Antarctica and the Arctic continue to operate with small, open lifeboats on board.
• Has powerful twin engines and screws that can propel it at a speed of up to 14 knots. It also has bow and stern thrusters that make it into an incredibly agile ship, especially in tricky ice conditions. In fact a Canadian Coast Guard captain once referred to the Vavilov and the Ioffe as the “Ferraris” of the expedition cruise ships. Some ships in polar waters have a single screw, no bow or stern thrusters, and have difficulty operating over 10 knots.

This ship was originally designed to ensure that the safety, convenience and comfort of its scientists and crew were paramount while operating in all oceans of the world for extended periods of time. It has added many, new safety, electronic and navigation features in the past few years and is in full compliance with all international marine safety standards.